
As most savvy drinkers are by now aware, Jack
Daniel’s Old No. 7 is no longer with us.
It has been
knifed in the back by the greedy corporate clowns at
Brown-Forman, the conglomerate that bought the Jack
Daniel distillery in 1956. Mr. Daniel’s once excellent
whiskey began life as a 90 proof liquor, but about 17
years ago the proof was lowered to 86. Now it has been
lowered again, to a timid 80 proof. America’s
best bourbon is now a ghost.
The decision
makers at Brown-Forman have not only rendered Jack’s
whiskey less palatable, they have also managed to defile
an important part of our national heritage.
Jack Daniel
the man had little in common with the businessmen who
presently profit from his from his good name and reputation.
Jack was a man of sterling character and honor, a man
willing to struggle through decades of danger and turmoil
to bring his whiskey to a thirsty nation. Brown-Forman
have forgotten that Jack Daniel was a real man.
It’s high time to remind them that while they
may own his name and fame, they Don’t Know Jack.
The Birth of a Legend
Jasper “Jack” Newton
Daniel was born in 1849 in the small town of Lynchburg,
TN, the youngest of ten children. He was also the smallest,
only reaching a height of 5 feet 1 inch. Well into adulthood,
people regularly mistook him for a teenager, prompting
him to grow his trademark black goatee and long, drooping,
mustache.
Jack’s
mother died moments after giving birth to him, and his
father quickly remarried, primarily because he needed
another adult to raise his large brood. Jack’s
new stepmother was an obnoxious shrew of a woman who
kept the Daniel children on their toes with incessant
squawking. She nagged Jack’s father into joining
the ultra-strict (and ultra-dry) Primitive Baptist Church
and forced the children to attend as well. Jack went
along with it until he came of age, then abandoned organized
religion entirely, living most of the rest of his life
as a happy heathen.
The Daniels
were poor, but managed to eke out a quiet if not entirely
comfortable existence. A faraway storm of unprecedented
destructiveness was brewing, however, and when it reached
Tennessee it would devastate everything in its path,
including the Daniels family.
More Civil War battles were fought on Tennessee
soil than in any other state. Among them were some of
the most violent clashes of the war: Stone River, Shiloh,
and, bloodiest of all, Chickamauga. Lynchburg was a
remote locale but the war eventually found its way there.
The Daniel farm was overrun by troops from both sides
of the conflict, and neither side was shy about looting
the farm of food stores and livestock.
The two eldest Daniel boys enlisted with the Confederacy
and were slain in distant battles, and if that wasn’t
bad enough, Jack’s father, Calloway Daniel, contracted
pneumonia in 1864 and died just days after the Civil
War staggered to a close.
The war left the Daniel family financially and emotionally
ruined, unable to even adequately feed themselves. Jack’s
stepmother began sending her adopted children away,
either to live with other families or to simply fend
for themselves. Jack was the youngest, but he was also
the first to go. He was 15.
For the next
two years Jack bounced from one charitable neighbor
to the next, doing menial chores to pay for his meals,
but times were hard in the South at the beginning of
the Reconstruction and no one could afford to aid the
young man for long. Jack found that he had to rely on
himself first, and knew that if he was going to have
any sort of life at all he must learn a trade. He wasn’t
cut out for farming, didn’t care for it at all,
and the time he’d spent sweeping up around a general
store had left him cold.
The last family he’d live with, however, the
Calls, managed to teach Jack not only a valuable skill,
but one he actually enjoyed. Down in the hollow of the
aptly named Stillhouse Creek, Dan Call taught Jack Daniel
how to make sour mash.
From the instant
he and Call plugged the bunghole in their first barrel
of liquor, Jack Daniel knew he had found his true calling.
It didn’t matter that he was only 16 years old.
He decided then and there that he would become a whiskeyman.
Learning the Ropes
Jack Daniel
and Dan Call set up shop in the hollow of Stillhouse
Creek, taking full advantage of its crisp, clean, spring
water. In the beginning they only sold small quantities
of their whiskey around Lynchburg; they were still refining
their recipe, adjusting the proof to make the strongest,
yet smoothest, bourbon available. They made very little
money. Call had his farm to make ends meet, but he couldn’t
afford to keep Jack in meals as well, so Jack started
plotting the expansion of his tiny business, which meant
exporting the liquor to neighboring communities.
The closest
metropolitan to Lynchburg was Huntsville, Alabama. People
with things to sell traveled to Huntsville and whiskeymen
were no different. The field was crowded and Jack understood
that if he wished to turn a profit from his whiskey,
he’d have to make a name for himself, and fast.
It helped that the city was one of the more decadent
villes in the South, a known gathering point for those
with vice on their minds.
The trip from
Lynchburg to Hunstville was one of the more dangerous
treks a gentleman could undertake in the 1860s. The
road was little more than a pair of deep, weedy wagon
ruts, which made for a slow and jarring trip riding
in a wagon pulled by a team of recalcitrant mules. Additionally,
Jack had to hassle with Union revenue collectors. President
Ulysses S. Grant had decided to fund the South’s
reconstruction by levying taxes on liquor and cotton.
As such, the South crawled with an army of tax collectors
whose fundamental goal in life was to find, then tax,
then destroy, illegal stills. Jack began bribing such
officials at the ripe old age of 17. And when he wasn’t
dodging revenue men, Jack had to fend off predatory
mobs of leftover Confederate soldiers, men unwilling
to accept the demise of the CSA. These guys went around
armed to the teeth, robbing banks, travelers, and generally
annoying the hell out of the countryside. They were
bribable, as Jack quickly discovered, but were much
more likely to exact their “tolls” in jugs
of Jack’s whiskey. These guerrillas were bellicose
and bloody-minded, but couldn’t hold a candle
to yet another group skittering around the backwaters
of the South in those days—the Ku Klux Klan. This
gaggle of buffoons wanted to control all of the liquor
in the South because they had gotten it into their heads
that liquor made black men chase white women. On more
than one occasion, Jack was forced at rifle-point to
hand over his entire shipment to placate a Klansmen.
Jack Daniel
would not be put off. Even in the face of all these
obstacles, he made the trip to Huntsville with a wagon-load
of whiskey three times each week for almost ten years.
Sour Mash Empire
Slowly,
very slowly, demand for Jack’s still-nameless
sour mash increased, as did the coin in his pocket,
until, finally, he was able to purchase a 140-acre plot
of farmland near Cave Spring, outside Lynchburg. The
Cave Spring was a constant source of wonderful springwater,
and the land was rich and dark, perfect for growing
corn. In time, this place would become known simply
as the Hollow. Jack opened the Daniel and Call Whiskey
Distillery on this site, where it still stands today.
Jack was 25.
By the late
1870s the stage was set for a radical expansion of Jack’s
whiskey business. Demand was increasing, with steady
customers as far away as St. Louis, but harassment was
on the rise as well. First among Jack’s annoyances
was the Federal Government, in the person of retired
Union general Green B. Raum. Raum went after collecting
excise taxes on liquor with the zeal of a circus geek
pouncing on a chicken. He was incorruptible, single-minded
and stoic. It’s no exaggeration to say that by
1885 Raum was the single most hated man south of the
Mason/Dixon Line. Several attempts were made on the
general’s life before he relocated his offices
to the relative safety of Washington D.C., leaving day-to-day
operations up to his cabal of stubborn and self-righteous
revenue collectors.
The excise taxes
kept going up but Jack was able to keep pace by cranking
up production. There was always a danger of injuring
the quality of the whiskey in playing this game but
Jack was able to walk that thin line. He had a much
harder time dealing with the attacks on his business
and person by the growing prohibitionist movement. Led
in Tennessee by the Anti-Saloon League, the prohibitionists
had been forced to retreat into their burrows during
the Civil War, but now that the hostilities were over
they emerged once again into the light of day to campaign
in earnest to rid America of that dreadful booze.
They attacked
on all fronts, hectoring politicians on the local,
state,
and federal levels, enlisting clergymen (especially
Methodists and Baptists), and indoctrinating children
against liquor in their very schoolrooms. They made
outrageous links between hooch and an array of social
ailments, and indulged in race-baiting to a truly reprehensible
degree (like the Klan, they felt that allowing liquor
anywhere near blacks posed a danger to virtuous white
women everywhere). Far too many Americans were willing
to give up the basic right of intoxication, but others,
Jack and his fellow Southern distillers included, knew
they had to fight back.
In the pre-War
days, whiskeymen protected their interests by the most
direct route: they went out and purchased a politician
or two. When the new brand of prohibitionist oozed onto
the national landscape they did so with a moral indignation
that bordered on the sociopathic, and the distillers
found it harder to buy a lawmaker of their very own.
They decided they had to take the fight to the people
and make Americans understand how much it would cost
to give up their freedom to drink, lest the liquor business
face a thorough — and dry —financial ruin.
So, they left off buying pols and instead set about
showing the public how great liquor was for the community.
They stressed alcohol-based camaraderie, and pointed
out that the distilleries provided good jobs for the
ravaged South.
History proves that their tactics worked, as is evidenced
by the fact that the prohibitionists didn’t succeed
in drying out the nation for several more decades. Sadly,
however, Jack’s partner, Dan Call, succumbed to
the siren song of the Dries. Around 1884 Call declared
that his faith now precluded his interest in whiskey
making. A staunchly religious man, with an even stauncher
wife, Call was unable to reconcile his job with his
god (or his wife). He backed out of his partnership
with Jack, but there seems to have been few hard feelings
between the two men, even though Call’s killjoy
wife refused to allow Jack into her house. Call’s
departure also gave Jack the opportunity to rename the
business, and the Jack Daniel Distillery was born.
Jack and other like-minded distillers made headway
against the prohibitionist stormtroopers, and the late
1800s and early 1900s were banner years for Jack and
Old No. 7. One of the methods the distillers used was
to get organized among themselves. They formed regional
and even national associations of brewers, distillers,
and vintners. The only goal of these groups was to promote
the beneficial aspects of alcohol. One of the first
such meetings was held in Nashville. It included, in
addition to Jack Daniel, James “Jim” Beauregard
Beam, who was busily pushing his great-great grandfather
Jacob’s whiskey, Old Tub, and a fellow from Deatsville,
Kentucky, named T.W. Samuels, who, since the 1840s,
had been selling the brand of whiskey that would eventually
become Maker’s Mark. Jack plotted strategy with
these men and many others, working out new and novel
ways to promote and distribute America’s gift
to the craft of distilling all across the land. Their
plans eventually lead to the formation of the Personal
Liberty League, an anti-prohibitionist group, who lobbied
elected officials against the Dries, whom one distiller
characterized as “ugly women, henpecked husbands,
and three-dollar preachers.”
By 1900 the Jack Daniel’s Distillery was the
largest in Tennessee and the third largest in the world.
Around Lynchburg, citizens began referring to Jack as “Captain.” As
if to go along with his new moniker, Jack cultivated
the style we have come to recognize as quintessentially Jack: the
long goatee, the black string tie, the Prince Albert
coat opened to the waist. He started carrying a silver-tipped
walking stick, which he used with a jaunty swagger,
and often touched its tip to his wide white plantation
hat in greeting his friends. Even though rancorous Dries
hurled insults at him in the streets, and made fun of
his expanding girth, Jack was easily the most famous
and respected man in Tennessee, and when Old No. 7 won
the bourbon competition at the 1904 World’s Fair
in St. Louis, his fame became national.
It was about this time that Jack retired. His health
was failing and he no longer had the energy to personally
taste each barrel of Old No. 7 before shipping. Jack
turned operations over to his nephew, Lem Motlow. In
a few short years, Jack suffered from the onset of severe
diabetes. First his left foot, then his entire left
leg were amputated. This didn’t stop him, when
the Stock Market almost crashed in 1907, from going
to both of his saloons in Lynchburg, every day, and
buying rounds of whiskey for everyone in the house,
all the while assuring them that the banks would hold.
Jack Daniel died in his bed on October 9 th, 1911.
Prohibitionists had, by this time,
such a stranglehold on the national press, that Jack’s
obituaries stated only that he was a farmer and horse-breeder.
Not one mentioned his work as a whiskeyman. The Tennessee
Democrat, however, had this to say about him: “A
warmer heart never beat in a human breast than the one
that supplied life current to Jack Daniel.”
Life
After Jack
Lemuel Motlow, now
the owner of the Jack Daniel Distillery, had always
pined for Jack’s
level of respect, but his quarrelsome personality made
that impossible. He fought hard against the ever-growing
temperance movement, but had a hard time winning popular
support. When the Volstead Act became law, Lem moved
operations to St. Louis and soldiered on, illegally
selling Old No. 7 to bootleggers like George Remus and
gangsters like Al Capone, who had a special fondness
for bourbon.
In 1932, FDR and the Democrats ran on a Wet platform,
vowing an end to prohibition. They succeeded in killing
the foul law in 1933, and Lem Motlow moved back to Lynchburg,
but the fires of fame had dimmed beneath Old No. 7.
No one had heard of it, it seems, and Lem lacked his
uncle Jack’s marketing skills. The brand foundered.
Lem Motlow died of a stroke in 1947, willing the distillery
to his four sons. These men were even farther removed
from Jack’s savvy, and couldn’t make a go
of things. In 1956, on the verge of bankruptcy, the
four Motlow brothers sold the distillery to the Brown-Forman
company. Brown-Forman already owned the Old Forester
brand of whiskey, and would go on to own Canadian Mist,
Southern Comfort, Korbel champagne, and Fetzer wine.
They rode the cocktail craze, and reinvented Jack Daniel’s
for the bop and beatnik set, a revitalizing act that
saved Old No. 7 from total oblivion.
Today, more than 200,000 people visit the Jack Daniel
Distillery each year, and it is now on the National
Register of Historic Places. In one of the great ironies
of our age, you get a glass of lemonade at the end of
the tour. Moore County, Tennessee is, you see, a dry
county.
Today
The Brown-Forman company has betrayed
Jack Daniel’s
legacy. All the prohibitionists in Tennessee couldn’t
force Jack to compromise his whiskey, but all Brown-Forman
needed to start watering it down was the possibility
of a larger profit.
Brown-Forman has stated that their customers prefer
the less potent mix. Bullshit. What does that even mean?
People like less alcohol in their alcohol? If they wanted
more water in their whiskey, they’d add it themselves.
Company spokesman Roger Brashears says that he “can’t
tell the difference. Our quality control is very scientific.
It comes down to how it tastes. We haven’t done
anything to affect the quality that has made us so many
friends over the years.”
I’m not sure where to begin with this. Yes, there
is a difference in taste. There’s less alcohol in
it, you corporate wussy. And, yes, you have affected
the quality. People have enjoyed Jack’s recipe
for over a hundred years. What are you saying, that
we’ve finally wised-up and discovered that we
didn’t really like it all this time?
Another spokesman
for Brown-Forman, Phil Lynch, has been quoted as saying
that “We don’t think it’s appropriate
to have a magazine called Modern Drunkard dictate how
we make our whiskey.”
Well, Mr. Lynch,
I got some news for you—whether you like it or
not drunks are your best your customers. They drink
the most and know the most about your products. And
since Jack isn’t around to whip your ass for diluting
his whiskey, it falls into our hands. The comments are
akin to a spokesmen for Ford or Chevrolet saying they
don’t think it’s appropriate for Car & Driver to
opine on the worth and utility of their vehicles because,
well, those guys drive too much.
Let’s put it on its face: Brown-Forman killed
Jack Daniel’s. Plain as that. And they shouldn’t
get away with it.
Stop drinking Jack Daniel’s. I have. So has
everyone I know. Switch to Maker’s or Beam, show
this soulless corporation that when they mess around
with what works, especially for suspect or utterly bogus
reasons, their customers take it personally.
Cheers. —Rich
English